Published Works

Instructional Climbing Books

A Rock Climbers Guide to Greyrock (1991), Horsetooth Press
Knots for Climbers (1995), The Globe Pequot Press
Advanced Rock Climbing (1997), co-authored with John Long, The Globe Pequot Press
How to Ice Climb (1999), The Globe Pequot Press
How to Rappel (2000), The Globe Pequot Press
Go Climb! (2001), North South Publications
Betty and the Silver Spider, (Welcome to Gym Climbing) (2002), Sharp End Publishing

Books in Progress

Betty in Anchorland, Rigging Good Rock Anchors (2003), Sharp End Publishing
On the Rocks, an Introduction to Rock Climbing (2004), The Mountaineers Books

Magazine Articles

Senior Contributing Editor, Climbing magazine

Feature Articles

Great Walls of Ice(China), to be published in Climbing, February 2003
Life in a Fairy Tale(Madagascar), Rock & Ice, June 2000
Val d'Aosta Ice -- Climbing in the Land of Vino, Castles, and Monte Bianco, Climbing, November 1999
Cuba Libre, Rock & Ice, October 1999
Big, Bad, and Burly: Offwidthing in the U.S.A., Climbing, September 1998
Sardinia -- Sun, Sand, and Seacliffs, Rock & Ice, May 1997
Mona Ami, (Mona Island), Rock and Ice, November 1996
Reservoir Dogs -- Bouldering at Horsetooth Reservoir, Climbing, May 1996

List of Articles

"Great Walls of Ice," Climbing, February 2003.
"Guide's Tip: Placing the Perfect Screw," Rock & Ice, December 2002.
"Guide's Tip: Communicate to Avoid the Big Letdown," Rock & Ice, September 2002.
"Vinales, Cuba," Rock & Ice, March 2002
"Ropes," Climbing Gear Guide, 2002.
"Ascending a Fixed Line," Rock & Ice, August 2001.
"Cuba," Su Alto, Autumn 2000.
"Pack Attack -- Get the Right Bag for the Crags," Rock & Ice, August 2000.
"Our Time in Eden -- The Quest for Madagascar's Fairy Tale Granite," Rock & Ice, June 2000.
"Wind, Sand and Stars," Rock & Ice, February 2000.
"Sidewinder," Rock & Ice, February 2000.
"Val d'Aosta Ice -- Climbing in the Land of Vino, Castles, and Monte Bianco," Climbing, November 1999.
"Offwidths -- Crack of Fear," Rock & Ice, October, 1999.
"Cuba Libre," Rock & Ice, October 1999.
"Crack of Fear," Rock & Ice, October 1999.
"Stack Attack -- Making Wide Cracks Easier," Climbing, August 1999.
"Wanna Buy a Rope -- Cheap?" Climbing, May 1999.
"American Guiding -- Buyer Beware," Climbing, February 1999.
"Ropes -- Choosing Your Lifeline," Climbing, 1999 Gear Guide
"Toolin' Around -- Ice Tool Review," Climbing, December 1998
"Wrap It Up -- Rappel Backups for Life," Climbing, November 1998.
"Big, Bad and Burly -- Offwidthing in the U.S.A." Climbing, September 1998.
"Maintain the Strain with Equalized Anchors," Climbing, September 1998.
"Seguros en Hielo -- Nuevas Propuestas," (Security in Ice -- New Ideas), Desnivel, March 1998.
"Shouldering Your Load -- Choosing a Pack Made Simple," Climbing, 1998 Gear Guide.
"How to Select Shell Gear -- Cover Your Assets," Climbing, 1998 Gear Guide.
"Country Boy -- Tommy Caldwell," Rock & Ice, December 1997.
"Ice Protection -- How Strong Is It?" Climbing, November 1997.
"Sardinia -- Sun, Sand, and Seacliffs," Rock & Ice, May 1997.
"The Right Ice Protection for the '90s," Climbing, 1997 Gear Guide.
"Dos Cuedas -- Doble Engorro O Doble Diversion?," (Two Ropes -- Double the Pleasure or Double the Fun), Desnival, Winter Special 1996/97.
"Sinfonia de Hielo -- Material Para Agua Inmovil," (Symphony of Ice -- Equipment for Motionless Water), Desnival, Winter Special 1996/97.
"Mona Ami," Rock & Ice, November 1996.
"Puerto Rico -- Climbers of the Caribbean", Rock & Ice, November 1996.
"Steven Haston -- Der Bose Btite" (Steven Haston, The Bad Brit), Rotpunkt, September 1996.
"The Casual Route," Rock & Ice, July 1996.
"Reservoir Dogs -- Bouldering at Horsetooth Reservoir," Climbing, May 1996.
"The Birthplace of Alpinism: Chamonix, France," Rock & Ice, May 1996.
"Alpine Pack Review," Climbing, December 1995.
"The Greatest Route at Greyrock," Climbing, November 1995.
"Stevie Haston - The Bad Brit," Rock & Ice, September 1995.
"Hidden Treasure -- Cayman Brac," Rock & Ice, September 1995, with Skip Harper.
"Learning to Lead," Rock & Ice, May 1995.
"Water Ice Primer," Rock & Ice, November 1994.
"Double the Trouble or Double the Fun," Rock & Ice, September 1994.
"Les Coinceurs Mecaniques a Cames," Vertical, August 1994.
"One Long Day," The Scene, August 1994.
"Early Alaska," Rock & Ice, July 1994.
"1994 Camming Gear Review," Rock & Ice, May 1994.
"1994 Ice Gear Review," Rock & Ice, January 1994.
"Frozen Waterfalls - Winter's Wild Splendors," The Scene, January 1994.
"When Legends Die," Rock & Ice, July 1993.
"In Search of the Perfect Belay," Rock & Ice, July 1993.
"Descent - What Goes Up Must Come Down," Rock & Ice, March 1993.
"Northern Colorado Craggin'," Rock & Ice, March 1993.
"Nuts! Part Three," Rock & Ice, July 1992.
"Nuts! Part Two," Rock & Ice, May 1992.
"Nuts! Part One," Rock & Ice, March 1992.
"The Ins and Outs of Ice Screws," Rock & Ice, January 1991.
"Rock & Ice Guide to Greyrock," Rock & Ice, May 1990.
"Black Lake Ice," Rock & Ice, Jan. 1990.
"Understanding Your Friends," Rock & Ice, September 1989.