Craig's First Ascents

Rock First Ascents

Zion Canyon, Utah
Towers of the Virgin, Chainsaw, V 5.11, with Mark Beardsley
Mount Sinawava, Plumbline, first free ascent, V 5.12a, with Topher Donahue

Bugaboos, Canada,
Snowpatch Spire, Sweet Sylvia, V 12b, with Kennan Harvey, Will Hair, and Brad Jackson

Wind Rivers, Wyoming
Mount Hooker, Red Light District, V 12a R, with Tim Toula

Vinales, Cuba
14 super-fun routes, up to 5 pitches long, 10c to 12d, with Cameron Cross, Skip Harper, Anibal Fernandez, Armando Menocal, Dave Ryan, Vitalio Escobal, and Carlos Pinelo

Mona Island & Puerto Rico
8 routes from 9 to 12b, with Skip Harper, George Bracksieck, Tom Kelley, Leslie Barber, Strappo, and Rossano Boscarino

Cayman Brac, British West Indies
6 routes, 10b to 12a, with Skip Harper, George Bracksieck, Lizz Grenard, and Jeff Elison

El Potrero Chico, Mexico
Pepe and Lupe (aka cl route), 3 pitches, 10c, with Silvia Luebben

Chamonix, France
Thai Boxing, 12c offwidth, with Stevie Haston

Tsaranoro Massif, Madagascar
Life in a Fairy Tale, V 12a, 145 bolts drilled on lead, with Silvia Luebben

Siguniang Mountains, China
Rain Rain Go Away, 3 pitches, 11c, with Silvia Luebben

Yangshuo, China
3 routes up to 4 pitches long, 10d to 11c/d, with my Chinese friends Simon, Sherri, Sharma, Jessia, dr and Daniel

Canyonlands and surroundings, Utah
20+ routes, up to 4 pitches long, 10 to 12b, with various suffering partners

New River Gorge
2 routes, atrocious overhanging offwidths, Gene Kistler's leftover scraps, both 12a

Fort Collins, Colorado

Greyrock Mountain, 30+ routes up to 4 pitches long, 7 to 12a/b
Poudre Canyon, 30+ routes up to 3 pitches long, 9 to 12b
Combat Rock, 10 routes up to 2 pitches long, 9+ to 12c
Redfeather Lakes, 11 routes, up to 2 pitches long, 9 to 12b
Horsetooth Rock, Straight from the Horse's Mouth, 2 pitches, 11a/b, with Silvia Luebben and Skip Harper

Ice First Ascents

Val d'Aosta, Italy
Culture Shock, WI5+, 200 feet, with Dave Sheldon and Ezio Marlier
Il Regalo, WI5 M6, 70 feet, with Dave Sheldon, Rudy Buccella, and Ezio Marlier
Escape the Killer Pillar, WI5 M5, 80 feet
Cuore de Pietro, Cuore de Ghiaccio, WI 5+, M6, 200 feet, with Rudy Bucella
Cleopatra on Ice, WI 4, 240 feet, with Cleopatra

Siguniang Mountains, China, (all routes first ascents)
Dragon Breath, WI7 M8, 320 feet, with Kai Zhao
Translator SuperKai, WI5, 200 feet, with Kai Zhao
Ah So Lion, WI4, 500 feet, with Kai Zhao
Culture Shock, WI6, 100 feet, with Topher Donahue and Kai Zhao
Ma Dynasty, WI6, 300 feet, with Topher Donahue
Messnerized, WI4, 250 feet, with Kai Zhao
Gang of Four, WI6, M6/7, 250 feet, with Topher Donahue, Patience Donahue, and Kai Zhao
Yak in a China Closet, WI5+, 600 feet, with Peter Doucette
Wet 'n Wild, WI 5+, 100 feet, with Jon Tierney
Hot Rod, WI5, 500 feet, with Jon Tierney
Crouching Rat, Sleeping Tiger, WI4+, 180 feet, with Kai Zhao
Draggin' Butt, WI5+, 320 feet, with Peter Doucette

Beijing, China
Peking Duck, WI5, 200 feet, first free ascent, with Kai Zhao
Telluride, Colorado
Bridalveil Falls, WI6, 500 feet and Ames Ice Hose, WI5, 650 feet, solo not a first ascent, just me and my tools, which the next day I learned were recalled by the manufacturer...


Guided Huascaran Norte (6655 meters) and Alpamayo (5974 meters) in 1995.
Guided Ishinca (5530 meters) in 1999.
Denali National Park, Rescue climber at 14,000' on West Buttress, Mount McKinley, May 1994, with Daryl Miller, Dexter Hale, Colin Grissom, Yan Kim.
Little Switzerland, 2001, with Gary Sapp.

Climbed many routes and opened a new one on the exquisite Madagascar granite, and toured the rain forest and Indian Ocean. September 1999, with Silvia Luebben, Mark Wilford, Lane Ahern, Dhasa Bishop.
3 tours climbing frozen waterfalls and limestone spires, and training Chinese climbers. With Silvia Luebben, Topher Donahue, Patience Donahue, Jon Tierney, and Peter Doucette.